Mackinac Island (pronounced as Mackinaw)

I am happily back in the States!  The last week while I was up in the Northern Channel, I was feeling very homesick. I couldn't use my cell phone, but I did manage to call a few people on Skype.  Although, I am continuously running into many wonderful, kind people, it isn't the same.  Maybe the few days I spent "weathered in" at Kagawong affected me as well. I am not sure.

After 4 nights at Kagawong, the wind finally died down a little, and the water was flat. Saturday night, the winds were terrible, even in the safety of the marina.  Sunday, the dockmaster and his wife offered to let me stay at their home, they worried I wouldn't sleep if the winds persisted another night.  At 7:40 that evening, the winds died down.  I had explained to the dockmaster that I would be gone before he returned at 8 the next morning, if the water was calm.  It was... and I left the dock around 6:30 on Monday morning.  The waters did not stay calm for long.  Once I was out in the open, the seas came up and it was reminiscent of being in the Abermarle Sound.  There were a couple differences though.  One difference was that I was out there in the big open waters alone for most of the day.  I also knew that the distance I had to travel was much farther than I had in the Abermarle.  At one point, six "go-fast" boats flew by me.  Then, it was just me out there again, wondering what happens in the winter, when all the water in this massive area is solid ice.  The biggest difference, was the rough seas didn't particularly bother me, I felt safe and comfortable in my boat, and didn't really worry about anything.

I had plans to stay in an anchorage on the Canadian side of the border, on the southwestern corner of Cockburn Island (pronounced Co-burn).  The anchorage was very exposed, so I headed into U.S. waters, and anchored in a small inlet in the southeastern shore of Drummond Island.  At this point, I had no cell service.  Occasionally, a text would go through.  From my anchorage, it was about 6 hours to Mackinac Island, five of them in fog.  It was a long journey!

Mackinac Island is a very, very busy place, and boaters have to make reservations well in advance through the Michigan State Park system.  I had a schedule to keep, which is less than ideal when boating.  I had been told that clearing customs here, was much easier in Mackinac Island than clearing in Drummond Island (northwest corner).  Most of the boaters I know, had their boats searched coming through Drummond, and I simply made a video phonecall, as part of the OARS program.  There were no lines.  However, I did have my moment of panic.  As I was coming through the fog, I started thinking about how I should be blowing my horn, especially as I approached civilization.  My radar was working well, and I hadn't seen anyone out there.  I decided I should get the blowing of the horn right, so I was looking it up in my book.  While doing this, I stumbled upon the Customs section of the cruising guidebook, only to read about calling into the 800 number for customs immediately upon entering U.S. waters, and to even anchor, was considered being in the U.S., and one could incur a $5,000 fine.  In the midst of reading this, the fog cleared, and I could see Mackinac Island, about 30 to 45 minutes away.  I quickly called customs, got transferred a couple times, and was told not to worry, just check into the OARS phone when I arrived.  Everything went smoothly.  I had tossed the last of my fresh produce out into Lake Huron in the fog, not that anyone asked.

When I arrived in Mackinac Island, Steve and his wife, Wendy, from Atla were there.  As we were having lunch, I saw No Compromises coming in.  Later, when visiting Tom and Vera, on No Compromises, I also saw Jim and Meg, from Sanctuary.  Estrellita was also here, along with a couple other Looper boats.  Meg and Jim left yesterday to head to their home port in Harbor Springs.  Once the fog lifts this morning, I will head to Harbor Springs as well, along with Stel and Burke from Estrellita.

Mackinac Island is a very touristy area.  The only means of transportation on the island include walking, riding a bike, or horses.  The streets are lined with tourist shops, mostly selling their famous fudge.  Horse-led carriages have the right of way.  The bicyclists are on the street, and everyone else stays to the sides.  There is an 8 mile paved trail around the island.  Stel, Burke and I bicycled around the island.  The waters around us were crystal clear.  The windward or western side of the island had waves crashing, and the leeward side or eastern shore, had calm, flat waters.  We will be heading west, and hopefully, the waters will be calmer today.  After the bike ride, I headed up the hill to the Grand Hotel, which is quite famous. At the Grand Hotel, I bought some fresh flowers for my boat.

In Kagawong, I met Earl and Karen at the marina, who have a summer home there. They ame by the marina the day before I left and offered to take me into Gore Bay with them, where they took me out for breakfast.  We walked around Gore Bay and went to the grocery store.  I didn't buy any groceries, knowing I would be heading through customs in a couple days.  Earl and Karen live in Florida for most of the year, so hopefully, when I head through their hometown in Florida, I will see them again.

Meanwhile, here are some pictures. It is 10 a.m., and we are all waiting for the fog to lift.

Meg and Jim, leaving Mackinac Island on Sanctuary, their last day of the Great Loop.

Across the street from my boat are the horse drawn carriages waiting for passengers, with the fort in the background.

Heading up the hill to the Grand Hotel

The chandelier in the Cupula, the bar at the top of the Grand Hotel.

Heading towards Mackinac Island... this is what I saw when the fog finally cleared.

So close to Mackinac Island... almost there!

Another beautiful sunset, at anchor.

Heading into the North Channel

It was a very busy week, and I felt like I was going day after day.  One new place, then another.  Today, I am taking a break from travel as the rain pours down.  The lightening and thunder have just started.

Earlier today, before the rain, I was able to head "up the hill" to the outside of town, to a cafe for lunch with a couple new friends, Steve and Lili, who are docked beside me.  We are in a little town, Kagawong, on the northern shore of Manitoulin Island, in the North Channel.  The town dock is small, reflective of how small the town is.  I don't think they have a gas station, but there is gas available for boaters at the docks.  They have one church (maybe two), and the 86 year old town mayor runs a small convenience store across the street and lives above his store.  This little store carries approximately one of a variety of things:  ketchup, mustard, milk or butter... just one each... but no half and half.  I had to go up the hill to the other convenience store for half and half.  They do have an abundance of ice cream!  Fortunately, when I came in, the dockmaster drove me up the hill, so I only had to come down the hill, a scenic walk by their famous "Bridal Veil Falls", where half the children in this town were swimming.  The other half were at the docks, swimming.  Today, there was another group of kids playing chess.  They have a couple mazes, one from pines and the other made with rocks.  It is a great little town!

I had a "this is a small world" moment after docking my boat.  I pulled in beside this large cruising boat, "Good Karma", with a gold looper burgee.  (Gold burgees are flags for people who have completed the Great Loop.  I have a white burgee, meaning I am in the midst of doing the Loop.)  In April, 2013, as "Good Karma" was heading through Southport, and stopped at Bald Head Island, I had been contacting Katherine about working online, while doing the Loop.  As they came through, I was able to take the ferry to Bald Head Island and have dinner with Katherine and Kermit along with two other couples doing the Loop.  It was definitely a good surprise to see them again.  They have just bought a new boat, and had barely put the name on the boat the day before.  They are taking it back to their home port in Ohio.  It is a crazy small world!  It was great to catch up with them.

Over the last week, I have been trying to stop at all the places I have been told are great places.  I have been successful at some stops, unsuccessful at others.  After Parry Sound, I headed up to Pointe a Baril, which is a small town up an inlet in the Northern part of the Georgian Bay.  It was somewhat disappointing, with just a small store for provisions.  However, there was an anchorage nearby, which was very peaceful.

 After anchoring, I headed towards Britt, a town in Byng Inlet.  The best part about this town was all the other loopers, who also stopped there for the night.  I met 3 couples on a catamaran, "Joint Adventure".  Tom and Tim from "If" showed up, as well as Diane and Henry from "DeDe".  I had not seen Diane and Henry since Norfolk and had not seen Tom and Tim since Waterford.  We were able to talk about our plans for the next few days, and we ended up meeting a couple more times during the week.

From Byng Inlet, a couple of us headed to the Bustard Islands to anchor for the night (DeDe). Another looper boat joined us there, "Tata", who I had met in Parry Sound.  From the Bustard Islands, we all headed off to Killarney.  In Killarney, we were again joined by If, and a couple other Looper boats including Halcyon.  While sitting on Halcyon with Diane and Richard, I saw Tom from No Compromises (from Southport) head by!  I gave Tom a call, and met him and his friend, Vera, a little later for a drink at the marina.

The following day, the plan was to head to Baie Finn, where there is a beautiful anchorage.  It is very well known.  However, I also knew that there was going to be bad weather today, and wanted to be at a marina for any storms.  My thought was to head to the next stop, Little Current.  Little Current is the town one has to go through to get from the Georgian Bay into the Northern Channel.  There was a line of boats entering Little Current.

Early in the day, I tried calling to make a reservation at the Little Current City docks.  I couldn't get through to anyone.  So, I figured I would just get there and find a spot.  This proved to be the first time on this loop that I was turned away!  As I came in, I was told there were no transient slips available.  I then asked if I could tie up just for lunch, and I was told there wasn't any space for tying up for lunch either!  Fortunately, Jim and Tricia, from Joint Adventure invited me to raft up to their boat, which was at the end of a T-dock, so I could at least enjoy lunch.  I had lunch with Tom and Vera.  I went back to my boat, visited with Jim and Tricia for a while, then headed here to Kagawong. Little Current is quite the busy place, especially this weekend. They had a cruise ship come in, a rendezvous and a regatta.  However, I feel I still got to enjoy best of Little Current, the fish tacos at Anchor Inn!

Not sure which lighthouse, but all the lighthouses have the same distinctive red roofs and white walls.

Pointe A Baril Lighthouse

Strawberry Island lighthouse

 There are so many houses on islands, and the further west, the more distant the houses are.  Here are three interesting homes which I felt were "picture-worthy".

I have to include some of the other pretty pictures I have taken... just because it is so beautiful up here.

View from my anchorage spot in the Bustard Islands

Leaving the Bustard Islands at sunrise.

Killarney - A great little town!

Regatta Sailboat headed to Little Current

Regatta Sailboat headed to Little Current

Looking out from Kagawong into Mudge Bay

I should be heading back into the United States this coming week. I will make a couple more stops before checking in with customs.  I look forward to being able to talk on my cellphone without worrying about running out of minutes.  I also look forward to having internet more regularly.

Meanwhile, for a few more days, I will enjoy the North Channel.

Into Georgian Bay

It is hard to believe that only a week has gone by and I have done so much.  One of the highlights of entering the Georgian Bay is going through the Big Chute, Lock 44, railway lock.  I arrived at Big Chute and docked at the free docks. It was in the afternoon, so I walked over and watched how the locking was done.  As it approached 5:00, I talked to the lift operators, and they encouraged me to go ahead and do the Big Chute then, as it was quiet and they could put me "front and center" with the best views.  I headed to my boat, and went over to the loading area. Another boat was already there, but they were asked to let me go in front.  The lift operators put boats where they want them.  It was amazing to ride the lift, on the front of my boat.  We head out of the water, over a road (and the railroad signs come down), then down the other slope and into the water.  It was so impressive, that I decided the following day to buy a day pass for $40 to do it all over again.  The second day, I was able to take a video. It was pouring rain the second day.  During the night, I stayed at the bottom of the original railway lift.

Big Chute Railway Lock:  They can hold many boats. The building is about three stories tall.

Heading west, over the hill.

At the summit, approaching the lock building.

Heading over to the other side.  There are huge granite rocks down the middle.

About to be put back in the water.

The original railroad lock and car.

My view up the original railway lift from my boat.

I don't know if I mentioned it, but at every lock, there is a power station.  Each lock is like a mini Hoover Dam (near Las Vegas).  Power is generated from the flow of the water.  The flow downstream is regulated by the dams and how much water is allowed to flow through.  There are times, like after a rain, when the water levels upstream are high, so they let more water flow downstream.  These adjustments affect the turbulence around the locks.  The turbulence can be difficult to maneuver in, especially when being asked to go "Dead Slow".  Some of us have talked about having to power through the turbulence, then we find ourselves heading into the lock faster than we like, so then we slow it down very, very quickly... to "dead slow".  Interestingly, Canadians call power or electricity, "hydro".

At the very last lock of the Trent Severn waterway, I was met by my friend Jim, from Bluenoser.  He met me in Port Severn for lunch, then boarded Annabelle with me and we officially headed into the waters of the Georgian Bay.  We went to his hometown, Penetanguishine, where he and his wife live. I spent a few days in Penetanguishine with Jim and Wendy.  I spent way more time on my boat, doing repairs, than I planned.  I think Jim would have enjoyed showing me around more.  Jim finished the Great Loop early in June.  I think he is still getting adjusted to home life.

While in Penetanguishine, I decided it was time to change my oil, having been just over 250 hours, since my last change.  I also had to tighten my alternator belt.  Jim helped me with both, and it is probably better to do these things with good company.  While I was cleaning up the mess, the service manager walked by and asked if there was anything I needed.  I asked about where to dispose of the oil, and he took it for me.  Then, I mentioned that I thought my auto pilot pump was not working.  He offered to have someone look at it the following day.  I had been fortunate earlier that day, the marina had a spare alternator belt for my boat, since I had been using the spare I brought.  The following day, his mechanic came and looked at the boat, and said the auto pilot pump had seized.  He banged it with a crescent wrench, and it started working.  However, there was no way to tell how long it would last.  They actually were able to find the exact same pump at a sister marina.  They brought it over and put it on my boat the following morning.  With all this good fortune, I decided to mention the stern thruster not working as well, which is a pain to get to.  Again, they said they could fix it, and they did... on the same day.  Although these repairs cut into my touring time, they were appreciated!

All things considered, I enjoyed the days I spent in Penetanguishine and appreciate Jim and Wendy for their wonderful hospitality.  Jim picked a great marina for me to be in, walking distance from his home, and with great staff.  Jim helped me plan my trip for the rest of the Georgian Bay and through the North Channel, which I am already enjoying immensely.

The first stop after leaving Penetanguishine is Henry's, a place known for its fish and chips.  When I arrived at Henry's, the owner welcomed me with a big hug, telling me he had been expecting me.  Of course, I didn't know who this man was that was giving me this big bear hug, so I had to ask him who he was!  Steve, from Atla, had told him ahead of time that I would be showing up later that day.  The docks were busy, and there are times, there is a line of boats just to get to the docks.  There are seaplanes that dock there also, taking passengers to Henry's for lunch or dinner.  Their signature dish is pickerel, a locally caught fish.  I enjoyed my lunch and headed to Echo Bay, where I anchored for the night, next to Atla and about a dozen other boats for a peaceful evening.  Sans Souci Island where Echo Bay is located, is a state or provincial park.  It doesn't fall into the federal Canadian Park system and they charge for going to the shore.  Many boats were tied to the shore, and had to pay $10 for the privelege.  Another boater had his dinghy at the dinghy dock, and he was also charged.  I watched as the state troopers went around collecting for the evening, long after 5 p.m, just as it was starting to get dark.

Henry's

Henry's as I was headed off towards Echo Bay

Seaplane coming into Henry's

Seaplane one finger pier over from Annabelle

Paul, the owner of Henry's.  Some people call him Henry.

Even late, on a Saturday night, these guys are working and making sure all the park fees are collected.

Anchored in Echo Bay.  The white boat has tied to the shore, so has to pay.  Neither Steve (Atla) or I had to pay.

From Echo Bay, I left early in the morning, headed to Parry Sound.  It was foggy, but I wanted to get to Parry Sound early, to schedule a seaplane flight.  Paul (owner of Henry's) had introduced me to the owner of Georgian Bay Airways, and I wanted to make sure to get onto the schedule.  They scheduled me in the afternoon, with another couple, on the "Blue Line" tour, which covers a couple days in my travels.  It was a great perspective from high above the water, showing the outlines of the different rocks below, which can't be seen at the waterline.  Here are some pictures:

Headed to Parry Sound in the fog. Many islands have their names painted on them.

Today, I am heading to Point a Baril, once the fog lifts.  The list for this week also includes the Bustard Islands, Killarney, Baie Finn and Little Current.  It is hard to say when I will get to any of these places.  We are supposed to have rain on Wednesday.  Fog and wind will also play a role as to where I end up on any given day.